Penguins!

One of our best adventures yet was going to see the penguins! I was a touch worried that it would be a hokey touristy thing, but it was amazing! We rented a car for the day and drove about 2 hours south to Punto Tombo--a protected reserve for penguins and other wild animals (cousin to the llama, rheas--small ostrich like bird, and other creatures). You are asked to stay on the paths or within the white rocks, but no one tells the penguins where to go or nest. They were everywhere! This is the largest colony of Magellen penguins (I think around 250,000). This time of year, the babies are up and about and both parents are going to the water to fish and feed the babies. The babies are still grey and fuzzy and so very cute! The parents were waddling back and forth to the ocean, and for some that was a huge distance and with a strong wind to boot. They would waddle right past you and brey like a donkey (they are also called the jackass penguin). It really felt unreal to be in the midst of so many birds like that. They are amazingly fast in the water and we could see them dart about. Polarized lenses on the sunglasses help! It was a great thing to see--one of the girls favorites!

We drove back to Puerto Madryn and said our goodbyes to the beach and headed to the bus station. This time, we were in 'cama executivo' or something like that. Buisness class--and was it nice! Huge seats, a hot meal served and we all slept soundly (until 4:30 that is, when we had to make a transfer!) We basically looked at the map and picked a place that seemed a logical distance and in the direction we wanted to go and bought bus tickets. We are now in Sierra de la Ventana and it is gorgeous! This tiny town has one main street and a handful of restaurants. We are in the foothills of some great mountains that we will explore tomorrow. Timing has a funny way of working--we got in on New Year's Eve morning, only to find everything closing early for the parties, nothing being open on New Year's day and then moving into the weekend. Basically, instead of a stopover, we are here 4 days! Our hotel is a huge old hotel on a hill above town and it is really funky. A bit like the Shining in ways, but clean and it has a beautiful pool that we have been enjoying. There must be 100 rooms and maybe 10 or 15 taken.

Last night, New Year's Eve, we didn't think we'd make it to midnight after the bus ride the night before, but when in Argentina....we all took a long siesta in the late afternoon and were ready for dinner by 8:30 or so. Unfortunately, no one else in the town was ready for dinner that early. We walked around and finally went in to the restaurant at 9 and they did serve us. It was a fixed menu for the night and it went course by course for 3 hours! At midnight, they gave us all a glass of champagne and fireworks went off in the street. We were so bleary-eyed from lack of sleep, we barely enjoyed it, but were glad we made it into the next decade!

Today, we all slept late, lounged by the pool and now are heading to dinner (earlier for a smaller meal).

Prices are still amazing us--especially wines. My 350ml bottle of wine last night was 9 pesos (a little less than $3). Hotels and hostels are all paid by the person, and we are usually paying around $14 per person.

People are very kind (even here where not one person speaks a lick of English and we are bumbling about). When anyone enters a room, they great everyone in it. Men and women alike give a kiss to friends and a handshake to a new aquaintance. The girls have been kissed a few times and while it makes them a little uncomfortable, I think it is great to see the culture first hand.

Feliz Nuevo Ano!